With spring just around the corner, it’s time to dump the winter doldrums and inject some color into your wardrobe and your decor! This year, why not spice things up with the hottest trend to hit the runway and showroom floor: color blocking? Color blocking is truly an art. Done wrong, it can be disastrous, but when perfectly paired, the look is effortlessly chic. Here are three simple tips to pull off this trend in an outfit or a room like a pro:
1) Choose your palette – The first and most important step in successfully color blocking is choosing your colors. It’s a common misnomer that color blocking can be pulled off by pairing any selection of colors. That’s just not so. Nick at ColorPrompt.com does a great job of laying out some basic color theory that will help color blocking beginners.
2) Go Bright - Bright colors tend to make the biggest statement. Try a bold blue paired with a playful lime. Color shy? No worries. You can also color block with neutrals. Base your palette in black and white, then add in a block of brightness.
3) Accessorize – Once you’ve got your colors down, use accessories to accent your theme. In fashion, belts, jewelry and bags are tools of the trade. In your home, use pillows, paint and art to accessorize.
Some great examples of color blocking can be seen in LINK Outdoor’s newest line of color blocking furnishings. Known for its colorful, bold and playful designs, color blocking is a natural evolution for the whimsical outdoor textile and furniture brand. Keep scrolling for some fun examples of color blocking in fashion and furnishings!
Men’s dress shirt collars come in all different colors, sizes, and styles.
The right collar on the right type of face is a sight to behold, a union of shapes and curves that bring out the best in each other.
A collar’s job is to properly frame the face, accentuating a man’s facial strengths while down playing any abnormalities.
Our discussion here centers around turn-down collars; if you are interested in learning about wing collars, (aka black tie collars) visit my other articles on men’s classic syle.
To facilitate this discussion, let us define a few terms important to understanding a shirt collar.
1. Collar Points - The tips of the collar. 2. Collar Point Length – The distance from the Collar Points to where they meet the Collar Band. 3. Collar Band- the piece of fabric that wraps around the neck. 4. Collar Height- The height of a folded collar as it fits on the neck. 5. Tie Space – The distance between the top of the folded collar parts when the shirt is buttoned. 6. Spread – The distance between Collar Points.
The Popular Point Collar
The point collar is the most common turn-down collar style, found on approximately 90% of men’s dress shirts. Having it’s origins in the military uniforms from the turn of the 20th century, the variations of the point collar have established themselves as the de facto collars of the world due to their ability to remain neutral (an important characteristic for manufacturers looking for a collar type that will appease the majority of wearers).
Key characteristics are that the collar is cut so that the “points” are reasonably close together, sometimes to the extent that they almost hide the top portion of a tie. In more extreme versions of the collar, longer more closely set points tend to draw the eye down towards the tie and away from the face, while a more moderate cut frames the tie and completes the arrow effect pointing at the face. The point collar is most at home on a man with round facial features; the collar’s elongating effect help to even out the look of his face. Men with thin faces should avoid these collars, as that they will only accentuate this feature.
Here is a Classic Straight Point Collar, clearly distinguishable by the small spread between the collar points. On this particular example, we see a 3/4 inch tie space and a collar point length of about 2 3/4 inches. All of a collar’s parts can be adjusted to ensure proportion for the individual; however, you need to ensure when accommodating your wishes the collar maker does not compromise the integrity of the collar type you wish to see framing your face.
Narrow Straight Point Collar – Here we see another version of thestraight point collar, however in this version notice the even smaller spread between the collar points accentuated by the lack of a tie space altogether.The collar point length here is closer to 3 1/2 inches, a clear indicator that this collar is meant to help a round faced man look less plump.
Button Down Point Collars – The button-down point collar style is most often seen on more casual shirts. These collars have small buttonholes at the very tip of each point, corresponding to a small button on each side of the shirtfront. While this collar can be worn successfully with a tie, it is the least formal of all the collar choices and is an excellent choice for the man looking to leave the tie behind. The buttons on the collar, however, are always fastened; to appear with undone collar buttons would be a faux pas.
Spread or Cutaway Collars- The Road Less Traveled
The second popular style is the cutaway, or spread collar. These collars have the points “cut away” or spread – thus the name – revealing more of the upper shirt area and leaving additional room for larger knots such as the Windsor. Like the point, spread collars come in a variety of widths, with more moderate ones resembling slightly flared point collars, while more extreme versions can be nearly horizontal.
The particular dimensions are best left to the wearer’s preference and body type, with very wide spreads tending to accentuate wider figures while creating a more fully proportioned look on thin gentlemen. With that being said the spread collar is most at home on a man with thin or long facial features; the collar’s widening effect help to even out the look of the face. Men with round faces should avoid these collars, unless they plan on wearing them without a tie.
The Medium Spread Collaris a close cousin to the point collar, separated only by the interpretation of the size of its spread. Although this collar point length may be a bit shorter as well, it’s primarily designed for the man whose face falls between the extremes. A safe choice, it is a great introductory collar for those looking to slowly explore the benefits of this collar family.
TheClassic Spread Collar – The spread of this collar leaves no doubt as to its heritage. A classic in bespoke circles for almost 100 years, this collar was made famous by the likes English royalty and Hollywood’s A-list Actors. The Duke of Windsor, Prince Charles, and Douglas Fairbanks are just a few of its advocates.Pair this collar with a thin face or small boned man, and you have a match made in heaven.
The Wide Spread and Curved Spread Collars – two variations of the classic spread; the spread has been increased by the collar point’s length (in this case to 3 1/2 inches). Found only in bespoke circles, the wearer must not only have a firm grasp of the collar style that looks good on him but must be willing to display this grasp of sartorial excellence for all to see. Not for the faint of heart!
Other Collars that Break the Mold
Tab Collars – The Tab collar employs a small tab extending from the middle of each point, which is fixed together – usually with a hook-and-loop closure – behind the tie. This forces the tie forward and up, creating the “standing” look of more elaborate knots. This collar should never be worn without a tie, and can be used to hide a abnormally long neck (Google image search Tom Wolfe).
Pin Collars – This collar has small holes in each point, allowing the insertion of a decorative pin or bar behind the tie knot which thrusts the tie knot forward and up while adding extra decoration to the collar itself. Like in the tab collar, this forces the tie forward and up, creating the “standing” look of more elaborate knots. This collar should always be worn with a tie; the empty holes and flapping tabs present an untidy appearance. Only wear this collar if you have the confidence to wield the attention it will draw.
Today’s suits are constructed in a manner where to ensure proper fit and drape of the jacket, one must generally leave the bottom button open. Whether this was started because of King Edward, or simply because of evolving fashion, it remains the rule today.
Remember: A suit should always remain buttoned until one sits, when it usually becomes necessary to unfasten the jacket. Once one stands again, the jacket should be refastened.
But as any gentleman knows, there are exceptions to every rule.
Suiting is no different.
Here’s a cheat sheet broken down by button styles.
Single Breasted Suits
One Button Suits
One button suits are the easiest to remember. The button should always be buttoned when standing and unfastened when one sits down. No extra buttons to fiddle with or worry about. Here’s an example of a one-button suit. This particular suit has peak lapels as well, in the classic tuxedo style.
Two Button Suits
Two button suits are also simple. The top button should remain buttoned, while the bottom button is left undone. If you button both and look in a mirror, you’ll immediately notice that something looks strange. The bottom button also significantly restricts your movement.
Here’s an excellent example of a two button coat with a nice natural lapel roll that comes from a canvassed lining:
Three Button Suits
With three buttons, you have options. You can either button the top two and leave the bottom unfastened, or simply button the center button. On suits with a lapel that is flat, it generally looks better to button the top two. If the lapel has a soft roll to it that extends past the first button, then it’s advisable to button only the center button.
Above is a three-roll-two lapel. You can see a button hole for the top button, but the button itself is hidden from view by the lapel. This jacket should only be buttoned in the center, as the cut and roll of the lapel essentially precludes the button from functioning properly without making a mess of the fabric at the front of the jacket. This is actually my preferred style for jackets. The soft roll of the lapel combined with the symmetrical top and bottom button holes exudes a classical elegance that normal three-button jackets cannot match. Moreover, this is a style that works best with full-canvassed or half-canvassed jackets, which is why I advocate for them so zealously!
Nowadays, one doesn’t see as many rolled lapels. So unless your suit has a rolled lapel, it’s better to leave the top two buttons fastened. But keep your eye out for three-roll-two jackets and pick one up if you can. You’ll not regret it.
Double-Breasted Suits
Double-breasted suits are pretty easy. Generally, fasten every button except the bottom (but even this is optional; Prince Charles routinely fastens them all for example).
Then, leave the suit buttoned until you take the jacket off – whether you’re sitting or standing. The military style behind the double-breasted suit requires that it remain fastened, otherwise the extra fabric at the front of the coat looks sloppy.
Its button configuration is known as a 6×2 because it has 6 buttons, only two of which can fasten. It is my opinion that this style of double-breasted jacket is most flattering for the greatest number of men. If you notice, the bottom-most button is undone. This improves suit drape and give a nice masculine figure to the jacket.
The notched lapel (American English), step lapel or step collar (British English) is sewn to the collar at an angle, creating a step effect. This is the standard on single breasted suits, and is used on nearly all suit jackets, blazers, and sports jackets. The notched lapel double-breasted jacket is a rare setting. The size of the notch can vary, and a small notch is called fishmouth. This was the first type of lapel to appear.
2.Peaked lapel
Peaked lapel
The peaked lapel (American English), double breasted style lapel or pointed lapel (British English), is the most formal, featuring on double-breasted jackets, all formal coats such as a tailcoat or morning coat, and also commonly with a dinner jacket (both single and double breasted). In the late 1920s and 1930s, the single breasted peaked lapel jacket was considered
a very stylish design. The feature was carried into day clothing by the increasing popularity of the peaked dinner jacket. The ability to properly cut peak lapels on a single-breasted suit is one of the most challenging tailoring tasks, even for very experienced tailors.
3.Shawl lapel
Shawl lapel
The shawl lapel, roll collar, or shawl collar is a continuous curve. Originally seen on the Victorian smoking jacket, it is now most common on the dinner jacket (tuxedo). This similarly began as informal eveningwear, and was then made in both more and less formal versions, depending on the situation in which it was to be used.
1. Collar Points - The tips of the collar.
